The Night Market
You turn the corner and in the distance you see an explosion of bright lights and countless signs jutting from the sides of buildings in the alley ahead. Ranging from clothing stores to your favorite restaurant, what you are viewing is one of Taiwan’s many night markets occupying multiple alleys and lanes that mirror that of boat docks in a marina. They range from tiny to gigantic, the smaller ones encompassing more food-oriented things, the selling of snacks, fruit and common Taiwanese dishes. The larger ones have tons of restaurants, retail stores, clothing stores, little “I really don’t need this, but it looks cool” stores, street vendors, food vendors, candy vendors and of course, people. Some night markets are so densely populated it’s like leaving a football stadium after the game ends. And if you don’t go with a patient mindset, then you’re leaving the stadium after your team has just lost. For Redskin fans, this is a common feeling. On a side note the fact they lost to the Cowboys this past weekend is ridiculous.
To further give you an idea of the walking speed that you will achieve while in a popular night market, imagine grabbing a tired 2 year olds hand and letting him/her lead the way (and keep in mind the length of their steps-I think a 2 year olds legs are maybe 1.5 feet long). It’s painfully slow sometimes so if you’re in a rush, steer clear.
I would describe night markets as “all-inclusive” and its like going to an outside mall. You go there when you’re hungry, if you’re bored, if you just want to hang out with friends, if you need clothes or shoes, if you want to buy jewelry, etc. etc. Many of my students go to night markets just to hang out and window shop. I go primarily to eat. I probably eat at a night market twice a day, 5 or 6 days a week. The diversity of restaurants, teashops, and food vendors will ensure that you satisfy any craving you may have. The food is good, you get your moneys worth and there are lots of choices.
I did recently have an awkward exchange at an ice cream shop in the night market that I frequent. Behind the counter there was a white guy, probably in his 50’s that could speak perfect English. I probably shouldn’t have, but I went into the transaction of ice cream for cash with the expectation of a seamless exchange. I first asked the Taiwan native for two scoops of ice cream. My request was returned with the perplexing question of “In separate cones?” Surprised, I said, “uh….no, one cone.” I was soon passed off to the white guy who filled my cone and awkwardly handed it to me like he was confused by two scoops on top of each other as well.“Here…you go….” he said uneasily as he handed me my ice cream. I guess our common background being from America didn’t break any ice. Needless to say, I haven’t been back, nor have any plan to go back.
Other more novel things or vendors you might see in a night market include lots of carnival like games, such as throwing rings around a bottle, or shooting basketball. One night market that I went to in Jinshan, a city north of Taipei had a table where a man was blowing glass. Items that he made included swans, unicorns, fish, dogs, flowers, any many other things, some of which were made of different colored glass. His skill of quickly making these glass figures was impressive, and far cheaper than an equivalent purchase at a department store.
Night markets are present everywhere in Taiwan so if you need some clothes, something good to eat, useless crap, or just want to practice your negotiation skills, head to the nearest one, which is likely just around the corner.
I forgot to mention, the night market that I live near is called The Shida Night Market. Shida is the University I take Mandarin classes at.
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