The Night Market

The Night Market

You turn the corner and in the distance you see an explosion of bright lights and countless signs jutting from the sides of buildings in the alley ahead. Ranging from clothing stores to your favorite restaurant, what you are viewing is one of Taiwan’s many night markets occupying multiple alleys and lanes that mirror that of boat docks in a marina. They range from tiny to gigantic, the smaller ones encompassing more food-oriented things, the selling of snacks, fruit and common Taiwanese dishes. The larger ones have tons of restaurants, retail stores, clothing stores, little “I really don’t need this, but it looks cool” stores, street vendors, food vendors, candy vendors and of course, people. Some night markets are so densely populated it’s like leaving a football stadium after the game ends. And if you don’t go with a patient mindset, then you’re leaving the stadium after your team has just lost. For Redskin fans, this is a common feeling. On a side note the fact they lost to the Cowboys this past weekend is ridiculous.

To further give you an idea of the walking speed that you will achieve while in a popular night market, imagine grabbing a tired 2 year olds hand and letting him/her lead the way (and keep in mind the length of their steps-I think a 2 year olds legs are maybe 1.5 feet long). It’s painfully slow sometimes so if you’re in a rush, steer clear.

I would describe night markets as “all-inclusive” and its like going to an outside mall. You go there when you’re hungry, if you’re bored, if you just want to hang out with friends, if you need clothes or shoes, if you want to buy jewelry, etc. etc. Many of my students go to night markets just to hang out and window shop. I go primarily to eat. I probably eat at a night market twice a day, 5 or 6 days a week. The diversity of restaurants, teashops, and food vendors will ensure that you satisfy any craving you may have. The food is good, you get your moneys worth and there are lots of choices.

I did recently have an awkward exchange at an ice cream shop in the night market that I frequent. Behind the counter there was a white guy, probably in his 50’s that could speak perfect English. I probably shouldn’t have, but I went into the transaction of ice cream for cash with the expectation of a seamless exchange. I first asked the Taiwan native for two scoops of ice cream. My request was returned with the perplexing question of “In separate cones?” Surprised, I said, “uh….no, one cone.” I was soon passed off to the white guy who filled my cone and awkwardly handed it to me like he was confused by two scoops on top of each other as well.“Here…you go….” he said uneasily as he handed me my ice cream. I guess our common background being from America didn’t break any ice. Needless to say, I haven’t been back, nor have any plan to go back.

Other more novel things or vendors you might see in a night market include lots of carnival like games, such as throwing rings around a bottle, or shooting basketball. One night market that I went to in Jinshan, a city north of Taipei had a table where a man was blowing glass. Items that he made included swans, unicorns, fish, dogs, flowers, any many other things, some of which were made of different colored glass. His skill of quickly making these glass figures was impressive, and far cheaper than an equivalent purchase at a department store.

Night markets are present everywhere in Taiwan so if you need some clothes, something good to eat, useless crap, or just want to practice your negotiation skills, head to the nearest one, which is likely just around the corner.

Monday night around 9pm. On the weekend its crazy

Lots of lights

The main street

Taipei City – Transitioning, International, Unspoiled

Taipei, the largest city in Taiwan is home to 2.5 million people, 7 million if you count all of Taipei County, which dominates the northern part of Taiwan in a bowl of densely vegetated mountains and lush-green countryside.

If asked to describe Taipei using 3 words, I would use transitioning, international, and unspoiled. The City is at a cultural crossroads, bearing witness to the collision of traditional and modern ideas, where east meets west and familiar meets unfamiliar. Viewing Taipei from Elephant Mountain, the silhouette of the Taipei 101 World Trade Center broadcasts Taiwan’s economic and sustaining position on the global playing field, complementing, supplementing and competing in world commerce to the highest degree. At 508 meters tall, Taipei 101 dominates the skyline, and while the buildings, companies and shops surrounding this visual anchor are ultra modern, sleek and international, they are far from overshadowing to the rest of the City’s cultural underpinnings and plethora of experiences one can have, where things might be far less modern.

Along any major road you will see old buildings maintaining the architecture of Taipei’s past. Their tile visage dirtied by the streaks of rust running from the platforms that hold the countless air conditioners that were later added far into the life of the building. However, just next to it you will commonly see a building, merely 4 or 5 years old with solid lines and smooth surfaces, glossy and architecturally advanced by global standards. While the older buildings are still plentiful in Taipei, it is easy to see that they will slowly, but surely be shadowed by the newer buildings that are continuously being built, propelling the City further into a more visually pleasing future.

Among the great variety of food and things to buy in night markets you will also find variety in the types of establishments that line the street. One corner you will see a new restaurant, complete with a hostess, cured wood floors, shiny tables and plush seats. Next to it or across the street you might see a-hole-in-the-wall restaurant, the apron-wearing owner pointing to a series of backless stools solely used for their most basic utility of something to sit on, suggesting at their current inoccupation. All the while, the area is comfortably lit with an energy saving light bulb.

Retail stores take on a dual identity as well, some locations mimicking western style malls with bright department stores, blasting the air conditioning. Products sparkle in glass cases, often adjacent to a well-dressed sales man or woman ready to politely answer any questions you may have. However, this is in direct contrast to the vendor on the street, unkempt with a deep tan from the often-intense Taiwan sun, selling products that are sometimes haunted with unreliability. Other retail stores, occupied by a single individual or family sell products without the “flash,” and are often watching TV or playing cards in the back.

Taipei’s internationality rings true through having met people from all over the world. Countries include South Africa, Belgium, Switzerland, France, Germany, England, Indonesia, Australia, Canada, United States, Japan, Spain, Russia, Norway, Ecuador, Italy, Vietnam, The Solomon Islands, and the list continues to grow. The lane I live on boasts cuisine from India, America, Germany, Korea, Tibet, Japan and of course, Taiwan. First arriving in Taipei and seeing someone whom was not Asian walking toward me, I would immediately think that they could speak English. This perception was quickly squashed as I heard a different mother tongue of Latin roots being spoken as we passed each other. Also, it is not uncommon to see familiar restaurants and coffee shops, from McDonald’s to Starbucks. I even saw a Sizzler down the street from where I live, complete with salad bar and all. Walk into these American-born establishments and it’s easy to warp back home.

For example, the defined atmosphere of Starbucks in Taiwan is identical to that of my go-to Starbucks in Clarendon 7,000 miles away that I frequented before coming. From the décor to the flavor of the “Coffee of the Day,” to the music that they play, to the sandwiches and desserts in the display case, you’re surrounded by familiarity, save for the obvious language difference and the heavily emphasized syllables of common coffee names such as “Americano” and “Cappuccino.” This feel of connectedness no matter where you are in the world further drives another idea: the meticulous language (or formula) that businesses create as they try to maintain their own brand image when their franchises go global.

While Taipei is transitioning and international, it also remains “unspoiled” because of the authentic experience you can still have despite it being a global city. You can still go to a night market or any store and not hear a word of English. Negotiating with storeowners is still common, the smell of stinky tofu still lingers in the air, and the numerous temples with their elaborate designs throughout the city are a constant reminder that you are in the Far East.

Taipei is an interesting place, a must see for any visitor coming to Asia. With the unending variety of familiar and unfamiliar, old and new, and where east meets west, it is easy to have a cultured experience while still feeling connected to the outside world, a sensation that is sure to not disappoint.

Note: The cable that connects my camera to the computer is currently missing...I will put pictures up as soon as I find it.